Router-Table Accessories
Coping sleds
Cope-and-stick cabinet doors combine elegant edge profiles with perfectly mating joinery you create with a pair of specialty router bits. It's easy to rout the "stick" profile on the inner edges of the rails and stiles, but a coping sled makes routing across the ends of the rails safer and cleaner. As a bonus, these sleds also aid when routing tenons and half-laps.
Most sleds register against the router-table fence via a clear acrylic "visor," but one tested model registers in the miter slot instead. Although we found no advantage to either method, your router-table setup might dictate which style you buy. For example, the visor on a sled might stand taller than your table's fence, rendering it useless; we provide the minimum fence height in the product summaries.
Tip! A backer block prevents tear-out when cope-cutting the rail ends. If your sled does not come with one, make one the same thickness as your workpiece. The next time you use the sled, the backer serves as a gauge block to set bit height.
Infinity Pro Coping Sled, no. COP-200
Min. fence height: 2-1⁄2"
Max. rail width: 8-3⁄16"
Overall grade: A
Separate hold-downs for a backer board (not included) mean you reposition or replace only the workpiece for each cut—not the backer board. And the 3⁄8"-thick aluminum base never deflected when clamping workpieces. An abrasive covering on the base prevents stock from slipping, and a slick film on the bottom face helps the sled glide smoothly; no other sled offers this. The visor can be set to either 2-1⁄2" or 3" above the table and 1-1⁄16" or 1-7⁄8" from the fence—the most flexibility of any tested model. Large knobs make adjusting hold-down tension easy, but Infinity also sells a self-adjusting version.
877-872-2487, infinitytools.com
Rockler Rail Coping Sled, no. 52149
Min. fence height: 2"
Max. rail width: 6-1⁄8"
Overall grade: A–
The only flashy thing about this sled is its attractive price, but it does its job well. With only one toggle clamp, which held stock securely, we had no trouble with the 3⁄8"-thick phenolic base bowing. Large, comfortable handles provide a good feeling of control throughout the cut. Screws secure the included backer board to the rear clamp block.
800-279-4441, rockler.com
Fulton Coping Sled Pro, no. 2943
Min. fence height: 2-1⁄8"
Max. rail width: 6"
Overall grade: B–
This sled resembles the Rockler model, but its 1⁄2"-thick melamine-coated MDF base bowed slightly when clamping workpieces. Nuts, instead of knobs, make clamp tension adjustments cumbersome. Machine screws for mounting the clamp bottomed out in the included cap nuts—we had to cut 1⁄8" off each screw to make them work.
888-512-9069, ptreeusa.com
WoodRiver Deluxe Coping Sled,no. 164579
Min. fence height: 1-7⁄8"
Max. rail width: 5-7⁄16"
Overall grade: D
Rather than clamping on top of the base—as with all the other sleds— this sled captures workpieces in a 13⁄16"-deep cutout in the base, trapped between the rear "foot" and the movable clamp block. But we could not get sufficient clamping force to prevent workpieces from pushing away from the bit once in the cut, resulting in an incomplete cope profile. Also, without a clamp to hold workpieces against the table, rails thinner than 13⁄16" thick frequently lifted once they contacted the bit, again resulting in a flawed cut.
800-225-1153, woodcraft.com
Woodhaven Medium Coping Sled, no. 526
Max. rail width: 7"
Overall grade: A
This miter-slot-guided sled differs from the other models in several ways. First, two sliding posts (rather than a clamping block) anchor against the rail front edge, with rear clamps holding the rail securely. One post hits the front handle, limiting workpiece width to 5-3⁄4", but removing the handle extends that capacity to 7". The heft of the 1⁄2"-thick phenolic base and fence gives this sled a solid feel and eliminates vibration. A backer board (not included) secures to the fence face with screws. With six miter-bar mounting positions to choose from, it should fit most router tables. (This model can be run against the fence instead of using the miter bar, but doing so results in routing into the base and potentially the aluminum fence.)
800-344-6657, woodhaven.com
Woodpeckers Coping Sled, no. COPESLED1
Min. fence height: 3"
Max. rail width: 5-11⁄16"
Overall grade: B+
The heft of the aluminum and phenolic parts of this sled greatly reduces vibration when routing. The slotted visor adjusts up to 1-1⁄2", allowing you to position the base as close as you want without contacting the bit. We found the threaded hold-downs less convenient than quick-release toggle clamps, and that they easily exert more downforce on the workpiece than needed: Even moderate tightening caused the base to bow slightly. We'd also prefer to have the handles mounted at the front and rear of the base for a more natural feeling of control. You must secure a backer board (not included) to the base with double-faced tape—no clamp or screw-mounting—to prevent scooting.
800-752-0725, woodpeck.com
MLCS Pro Deluxe Coping Sled, no. 9548
Max. rail width: 4-9⁄16"
Overall grade: C
After some fussing, we were able to create perfect coped rail ends with this sled. Its unique dual-pad toggle clamp with spring-loaded spindles holds stock well, but the 5⁄16"-thick acrylic base bowed until we reduced the clamping force to an almost uncomfortable level. And the clamps' bulk made it awkward to grip the front handle with rails narrower than 2-1⁄2". We'd prefer tool-free knobs to hex nuts for easier adjustments. Without a visor, the sled's base rides directly against the fence, so the bit cuts into the base and clamping blocks. That's okay as long as you use the same bit every time, but you'll need replacement clamp blocks for different bits.
800-533-9298, mlcswoodworking.com
Splined-Miter Sleds
Splines add a decorative touch while reinforcing miter joints by adding long-grain glue surface. These sleds help cut precise spline slots by carrying the assembly across the bit. The MLCS and Rockler sleds work with dovetail bits as well as V-groove and straight/spiral bits; the Infinity uses only dovetail bits. If you use a router lift, two of the jigs (MLCS and Rockler) cover the wrench holes used for setting bit height, so you might have to do this by trial and error: adjust, set the jig in place, adjust, reset the jig, until you dial it in.
MLCS Router-Table Spline Sled, no. 9537
Overall grade: A
800-533-9298, mlcswoodworking.com
This sled works best with small boxes and frames, but any assembly you can fit in the cradle will work. Registering in the miter slot, this sled allows 3" of front-to-back adjustment to align it over the bit. With your assembly in the cradle, slide the entire sled in the miter slot to rout the spline slots. Setting bit height can be tricky with assemblies wider than 4"—we found it easiest to remove one of the brackets to do this. The brackets close as narrow as 1", so for anything narrower, you'll need to add a spacer to fill the void. For anything wider than 9", remove one of the brackets. You don't get zero-clearance support against tear-out—the cradle bottom is open—so push the jig slowly across the bit and keep bits sharp. If using dovetail or V-groove bits to cut the slots, use these same bits to create the splines. The base and cradle, made from melamine-coated 1⁄2" MDF, come mostly assembled.
Infinity 12" Tapered Dovetail Spline System,no. 100-040.SET
Overall grade: A
Infinity's spline system operates much like a dovetail jig: The cradle sled follows a guide bushing around a 14° dovetail bit to cut tapered spline slots (photo, above).
It works both on the router table and with a handheld router, so your router table needs an insert ring to hold the included 5⁄8" bushing; the jig works with dovetail bits up to 5⁄8" wide. You can follow the spacing on the sled to cut multiple slots, or mark where you want splines and reposition the jig after routing each slot. To make matching tapered splines, use the crosscut sled on your tablesaw. To do this, cut a blank 2–3" long and at least 5" wide, and cut splines from the blank, as shown top (photo, above); adjust the stop until you get a perfect fit. Be careful to not over-drive the splines or you could split the joint. It's an elegant, almost foolproof system. (Infinity also sells an 18" sled that allows for using larger-diameter dovetail bits.)
877-872-2487, infinitytools.com
Rockler Router-Table Spline Sled, no. 59288
Overall grade: A–
Instead of moving the whole sled to cut spline slots, the 1⁄2"-thick melamine-coated MDF base of Rockler's jig locks into the miter slot. The plastic cradle then slides front-to-back over the bit; reposition the workpiece within the cradle to rout additional slots. Both carriage brackets close fully, with a maximum opening of 8-1⁄8", but you can remove one bracket for wider assemblies. The brackets slide rather stiffly side-to-side but should loosen up over time. Although the cradle slides smoothly in the base, sawdust settles in the slots, often impeding travel until cleaned out.
800-279-4441, rockler.com
Box-Joint Jigs
Making box joints on a router table requires three things: a straight or upcut spiral bit, a jig to hold the workpiece, and an indexing key to ensure consistent spacing between the jig's fingers. Once set up, you simply cut a notch, fit it over the indexing key, and step-and-rout notches across all workpieces. As with the splined-miter jigs, some of these jigs block router-lift adjusters when in position.
Incra I-Box Box-Joint Jig, no. I-BOX
Overall grade: A
A pair of pin plates—adjustable in .001" increments—set the spacing (1⁄8–3⁄4") incredibly well, though not intuitively. (Watch Incra's video to get the best understanding of this function.) The jig includes a miter bar with nylon adjusters to snug up the fit in the miter slot and eliminate wiggle. Workpieces rest on a platform rather than on the table surface, and a replaceable MDF backer board provides zero-clearance support against tear-out. We found it easier to remove the front and rear guards before setting bit height; replace them before making any cuts. When cutting box joints, chips can build up around the key plates; we had to blow them out frequently to prevent any problems. I-Box also works on a tablesaw, but switching between the tablesaw and router table requires partial disassembly and recalibration of the jig.
972-242-9975, incra.com
Woodhaven Box-Joint Jig, no. 4555
Overall grade: A–
The jig consists of a 24" aluminum fence (with multiple T-track slots) with a bit/blade cutout and replaceable MDF subfences; it mounts to almost any miter gauge. Two aluminum keys provide the adjustable spacing (1⁄8–13⁄16"), shown top right, but the lackof a microadjuster means making trial-and-error test cuts and adjustments to achieve a perfect fit. Once dialed in, the jig proves easy to use. Like the Incra, this jig can also be used on the tablesaw.
800-344-6657, woodhaven.com
Rockler Box-Joint Jig, no. 59032
Overall grade: A–
This compact jig works best when making small boxes and drawers. For workpieces wider than about 6", we recommend making a longer subfence to improve support. Like Rockler's spline-cutting sled, this jig's plastic carriage slides back and forth on an MDF base locked in the miter slot. Brass indexing keys in 1⁄4", 3⁄8", and 1⁄2" provide the spacing to match bits (not included), and a 1⁄2" MDF subfence provides zero-clearance support against tear-out. Set the spacing between the key and bit using a spacer or setup bars (not included) equal to the bit diameter. Because it lacks a microadjuster, setting the jig may take multiple test cuts and adjustments until you get a good fit. During routing, chips build up in the left carriage slot, sometimes to the point of impeding carriage travel.
800-279-4441, rockler.com
Leigh Box-Joint and Beehive Jig, no. B975
Overall grade: A–
This jig looks and behaves like a traditional through-dovetail jig, but instead creates 1⁄2" and 3⁄4" box joints. (It originated from an initiative to make beehive boxes to help the worldwide honeybee crisis.) It works just as well with a handheld router as on a router table. To start, screw the template and sidestops to a beam/fence that you provide—we laminated two pieces of 3⁄4" MDF—then install the provided guide bushing in your router table, and you're ready to roll. Rotating the elliptical bushing fine-tunes the fit of the joint: Each mark makes .002" of adjustment. Although precise, it relies on you holding and sliding the jig in the same orientation for each cut. After you rout the first pair of workpieces, position the second set against the flip-stop for the correct offset. The included 1⁄2"-diameter bit cuts both joint sizes.
800-663-8932, leightools.com
Other Helpful Jigs and Accessories
Rockler Dust Right Dado Dust Chute, no. 57495
Overall grade: A
This dust chute captures debris that spews out ahead of the workpiece. It attaches with two screws to almost any router table, and you can lower it below the table surface when not needed. The bristles around the dust hood's rim deflect chips into the dust port while the workpiece passes over unimpeded. We attached it with a wye connector and flex-hose to the existing dust-collection hose. A blast gate lets you close it when not needed.
800-279-4441, rockler.com
Rockler Router Fence Storage Tray, no. 51061
Overall grade: B
Holding up to five bits and other small accessories, this tray provides an easy-reach storage solution for the items you're using at the moment. It attaches easily to a T-slot on the top or back of your fence and slides anywhere along the fence, but may interfere with the locking knobs. We keep the hex wrench that came with it in the tray so we can quickly loosen the socket screws and reposition the tray as needed.
800-279-4441, rockler.com
Rockler Small Piece Holder, no. 57896
Overall grade: A
This handy gadget excels at exactly what you'd expect: holding small workpieces securely, while keeping your hands safely away from the bit. It works great for routing profiles, in conjunction with either the fence or a bit's bearing.
800-279-4441, rockler.com
MLCS Vertex Multiangle Sled, no. 9545
Overall grade: A–
We like this jig for cutting tenons, half-laps, and any other joint best cut vertically. Because it registers in the miter slot, you don't need to worry about positioning the router-table fence other than for dust collection. Without a microadjuster, dialing in a precise cut requires repeated test cuts, but works well once achieved. And you must manually align the toggle-clamping bars 90° to the table for precise square cuts. In addition to the 90° fence blocks, this jig comes with blocks for angling the clamping face to 45°, 60°, and 75°. This jig also works on the tablesaw.
800-533-9298, mlcswoodworking.com
Infinity Vertical Router Sled, no. VRS-100
Overall grade: B+
Unlike the MLCS jig, this sled registers against the fence rather than in the miter slot, so you have to keep the workpiece pressed flat against the fence for an even cut. That gets tricky with pieces narrower than 3", so an adjustable guide (Infinity calls it a foot) provides a second point of contact with the fence. However, this guide won't work on fences shorter than 3-1⁄8".
877-872-2487, infinitytools.com